In the Official uConn Huskies 2023 NCAA Men_s Basketball National Champions Schedule T-Shirt in addition I really love this spotlight today: Founding Vogue Club member Mehreen Diwan is a fan of Thierry Mugler. What’s topping this entrepreneur’s wish list? A matte black Dior Saddle Bag… Let’s meet her! At first glance, Olly Shinder’s clothes carry all the immediate trappings of the oppressively masculine world of high fashion performance gear and army surplus stylings that has swept through menswear over the past few years. But look a little closer and you’ll notice that the military top you’re looking at it isn’t made from the stiff, durable technical fabric of a combat uniform at all, but instead from a luscious crepe silk. Run your hand along a pair of trousers, and you’ll find an unusually supple texture, cut from a buttery English jersey. Where the flaps of a classic soldier’s pocket should be are subtle cut-outs, backed by layers of mesh to reveal only a suggestion of the chest underneath.Photo: Kuba Ryniewicz
Photo: Kuba RyniewiczIt’s all part and parcel with Shinder’s overarching philosophy as a designer: what might appear macho on the Official uConn Huskies 2023 NCAA Men_s Basketball National Champions Schedule T-Shirt in addition I really love this surface has a softer, queerer sensibility when you probe a little deeper. Since establishing his namesake brand off the back of his Central Saint Martins graduate collection last year (the lookbook for which was photographed by Wolfgang Tillmans), Shinder’s point of view has become about “taking these very functional pieces and elevating them so that people notice them,” he says. Shinder is not alone in this quest—a handful of other brands, from GmBH to Per Götesson to Cottweiler, have also been investigating the possibilities of gentler and less gendered riffs on these typically masculine silhouettes and textiles—but his balance of thoughtful creativity with a surprising commercial nous marks him out as an equally distinctive voice within the space.Photo: Kuba Ryniewicz
